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Cruise Dining: Speciality dining sparks a new era in cruising.



TEN TO 15 YEARS AGO, some 80 per cent of all cruise ship meals were served in the main dining room. Today, that figure has dropped to about 15 per cent, according to Richard Fain, Chairman and CEO of Royal Caribbean Cruises. In fact, passengers may have up to 10 choices for their daily meals - and that doesn't include room service.

Curtis Stone with his new restaurant aboard Princess Cruises, SHARE
The trend began with the advent of alternative restaurants - a special, dedicated space for reservations-only dinners. Increasingly, these venues provide more than just a change of scenery. Menus are now designed around a culinary theme. The emergence of specialty dining has taken the cruise industry by storm. Some of the biggest ships represent a veritable United Nations of dining options, and even the smallest vessels have embraced the trend. Why this sudden diversity in dining? It's all part of the cruise industry's ongoing strategy to compete with land-based resorts, and to do so by offering as many options as a resort hotel. It's a whole new way to cruise, notes Bob Sharak, Executive Director of New York-based CLIA (Cruise Lines International Association), which represents 21 cruise lines. "Passengers can choose where and when they dine," Shark points out, "while sampling dishes they might not order if they were in a restaurant at home." Plus, he adds, "It's nice knowing that if you don't like what you've ordered, you can order something else."

Presentation is a big part of specialty dining. Holland America Line, for example, places a particular emphasis on ambience, describing the arrival to its Pinnacle Grill in these glowing terms: "Guests will be greeted by a host, who will guide them to their table, where a waiter, wearing a crisp starched white Pinnacle logo jacket and tie, will seat them. At each setting will be a large Bvlgari show plate. Other select china patterns have been chosen from Rosenthal in various shapes and sizes, with some representatives of the Pacific Rim region. Additional tableware includes quality glassware from Reidel, tasteful white Frette linen, and an iron bread basket, specially designed by Seattle artist Mary Gioia. A signature orchid in a bud vase is centred on each table.

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Even lower-cost lines put on a good show: at Carnival Cruise Lines' top-deck supper clubs, a full table setting of silverware and goblets says "this is something special". Decorative dishes are whisked away just in time for the arrival of appetisers and entrees, which take their rightful place upon white table linens. Wines are served from a special list; breads run the gamut of the baker's art. Even the butter is a cut above the norm: Carnival serves it in three varieties - regular, garlic and paprika. I highly recommend you try them all.

If presentation is important, so is price. Many specialty restaurants come with a cost: there's an extra charge for the basic menu, which can be over US$20 per person. Cruise lines defend the cover charges as a useful way to "manage demand", in the words of Andy Stuart, Executive Vice President of Marketing, Sales and Passenger Services for Norwegian Cruise Line.

Passengers are very price sensitive, he says, and maintaining an additional charge for specialty dining "greatly improves the passenger flow". In other words, it avoids overcrowding - an important consideration, since these eateries usually can accommodate only a fraction of a ship's passengers.

Even so, most cover charges are relatively moderate, sometimes less than US$10 per person. A sampling from Norwegian Cruise Line's latest ship, Norwegian Dawn, illustrates the sometimes complicated landscape of fees. Of the ten restaurants aboard, seven have no extra charge. The remaining eateries charge US$10 for Asian food, US$12.50 for French cuisine and US$17.50 for the steakhouse. If, however, you want lobster, that's priced at US$25.

Is it worth it? Usually yes. Often, the entire experience is exquisite. Service is often extraordinary and a cut above the rest of the ship. The food can be sublime - such as mouthwatering steaks that are worth the price of admission. Essentially, these restaurants complement the ship's main dining room. As such, they're best suited for sampling once or twice during a cruise. Don't overdo it, and the cost won't be overly prohibitive.

Now that we've whet your appetite, here's a sampling of the specialty dining being served aboard a range of major cruise lines:

Carnival Cruise Lines: Carnival pulls out all the stops in its bilevel supper clubs on the company's Spirit Class and Conquest Class ships. Menus feature prime steaks, seafood and crab. Other specialty venues may include a New York-style deli, 24-hour pizzeria and outlets for Asian cuisine and sushi. These are available at no additional charge.

Costa Cruises: Known for "Cruising Italian Style", Costa has recruited two of Italy's best-known chefs to create menus for its specialty restaurants aboard Costa Atlantica, Costa Fortuna, Costa Mediterranea and Costa Victoria. Brazilian cuisine is featured aboard Costa Tropicale.

Crystal Cruises: Always in the vanguard of dining, Crystal's latest specialty restaurant aboard Crystal Serenity combines classically styled Japanese food with Peruvian and European influences. Specialty dining elsewhere in the fleet includes upscale venues for fine Italian and Asian cuisine. All operate free of charge.

Cunard Line: Cunard's new flagship, Queen Mary 2, offers 10 dining venues including several specialty outlets. Among the choices is Lotus, serving Asian cuisine including Chinese, Thai, Japanese and Indian dishes. The Carvery serves up beef, lamb, pork and poultry; La Piazza serves pizza, pasta and other Italian specialties. There is no extra charge except for the Chef's Galley.

Holland America Line: Seattle-based Holland America looked toward its home region of America's Pacific northwest for inspiration when it created The Pinnacle Grill. Cuisine reflects the influences of the Pacific seaboard, serving such culinary delights as salmon, tuna and crab. A list of regional wines complements the menu.

Norwegian Cruise Line: NCL's "Freestyle" ships were the originators of multiple dining venues, offering a dizzying array of options that include Asian, French, Italian, Mexican and more.

P&O Cruises: P&O features a new outdoor dining experience aboard Pacific Sky called the Outback Grill (cover $15). The menu features steak, Caesar salad, baked potatoes and corn on the cob. The ship's New Zealand Natural Ice Cream bar serves a variety of sweets from milk shakes to chilled espresso drinks. On the Pacific Sun , alternative dining will be found in the Funnel Bar & Grill, with menus to be announced. Both vessels have a 24-hour pizzeria. Pacific Princess, meanwhile, has alternative restaurants for steak and Italian cuisine. Extra charges apply on all ships and vary by venue.

Princess Cruises: Princess has fully incorporated specialty restaurants as just one aspect of its Anytime Dining program. Depending on the ship, specialty choices may include a steakhouse, pizzeria or trattoria. Princess was the first to offer Tex-Mex from the American southwest, the first New Orleans-style restaurant at sea, and will soon introduce the first Caribbean theme restaurant.

Radisson Seven Seas: The aptly named Latitudes on Seven Seas Voyager features regional specialties from throughout North America. Among the offerings are dishes from California, Texas, Illinois, Florida, New York and Hawaii. According to the line, it adds up to "a compilation of the American Palate". Seven Seas Mariner offers Asian-Fusion menus, while the Signatures Restaurant on both ships features French culinary stylings from Le Cordon Bleu. There is no charge.

Royal Caribbean International: RCI's Voyager-class and Radiance-class ships feature Chops Grille, a steakhouse-style restaurant, and Portofino for Italian food. More casual meals at no-charge can be found at Johnny Rockets, a 1950s-inspired roadside diner serving hamburgers, french fries and milk shakes, or the Seaview Cafe, also dishing out finger-licking snacks. Monarch of the Seas has Jade Sushi, which operates on an a la carte basis; charges vary.

Seabourn Cruise Line: The yachts of Seabourn deliver a different culinary tradition each night in their casual Veranda Cafes. Themes may include Ginger and Spice (Asian), Modern Mediterranean or the Seabourn Steakhouse. There is no charge for alternative dining.

Written by MT Schwartzman - Issue 15 Autumn 2004

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